Italy

Amalfi Coast Travel Guide: 4 Days in Paradise

July 2, 2019

If I had to pick my favorite destination on earth, it would have to be the Amalfi Coast. There is no way to describe it except heaven on earth. Combine amazing classical Italian food with gorgeous and pristine beaches with stunning architecture with awe-inspiring nature with European charm, and you get the perfect formula for a getaway. Here is the best way to visit the Amalfi Coast in only four days!

How to get there

It’s actually quite difficult to get to the Amalfi Coast, the main reason being that the entire coast is situated on a cliff. Because of this, it is not well connected by air, or by rail. Regardless of where you’re staying in the Amalfi Coast, you will probably have to go through Naples, and then Salerno or Sorrento, depending, so these instructions will tell you how to get there. Once you’re in Salerno/Sorrento, you can follow any of the methods below on getting between towns to get to whichever town you choose to stay at.

If you’re flying in from out of country, the closest airport is Naples International Airport (NAP). Alternatively, you can fly into Rome Fiumincino Airport (FCO) and then take a train to Naples. Once you get to Naples, you can choose any of the options below.

The town on the Amalfi Coast that is best connected by rail is Salerno. There are direct trains from Naples to Salerno quite often, it only takes about 30 minutes and they’re really inexpensive at around €5 per person! This is how I got to the Amalfi Coast and I highly recommend it. You can also take the Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento, which is a town on the other side of the coast, and that’ll set you back about €4 and takes about an hour.

From the Naples Airport there are buses to Salerno and Sorrento. They run less often than the trains do, it takes longer than the train (around an hour), and are more expensive than the train (€7-10), so I don’t recommend this option.

From the port in Naples, you can catch ferries headed to Sorrento. The only thing you have to be careful with is that ferries only run from late April through mid-September. I recommend buying a ticket from Alilauro. Their ferry takes around 40 minutes and costs €12.

The quickest way to get to the Amalfi Coast from Naples is to get a taxi or private car-hire. Unfortunately, it’s also the most expensive, costing €120-150.

How to get between towns

This is by far the cheapest method of getting around. The SITA bus runs between most Amalfi Coast towns, and also runs fairly often, although buses do stop running around 9-10PM at night. To buy tickets, you need to find a Tabacchi shop, which translates to tobacco shop when really they’re more of a convenience store, and simply ask for tickets at the counter. One way tickets are typically around €1-2. You can check the bus schedule here.

However, I want to warn you that the bus trips are a literal nightmare. The roads are extremely winding, and drop off directly into cliffs. I do not recommend taking the bus if you have a fear of heights, are prone to motion sickness, or just value your comfort and sanity.

This is the recommended way! The ferry is far more comfortable than the bus, and a lot more scenic! Regular ferries run between all the towns, although they stop running at around 7PM, so plan ahead! It’ll cost you around €12 one way. You can buy them ahead of time here.

This is by far the best way to travel around. Vespas can weave between cars, avoiding traffic, and it feels a lot safer too because you have more room to maneuver on the roads. You also have the freedom to pull over wherever you want, whereas you couldn’t do that on a car because there’s no room. However, this obviously requires you to know how to drive a motorcycle. If you’ve never driven one before, I don’t recommend using the coast to learn, because of the cliffside roads.

I highly caution you against renting your own car for the Amalfi Coast, because of the aforementioned winding cliff roads and the insane traffic you’ll experience during peak season. Therefore if you must travel by car, you should get a private car hire. It’ll cost you around a few hundred euros, but some say the convenience is worth it.

Day 1: Positano

This is my favorite Amalfi Coast town, and the most famous. Positano has the kind of power that, once people see a photo, immediately makes them plan an entire trip around this one town. I know that’s what happened to me! So that’s why I recommend starting off here.

Morning: Relax at the Beach

There’s two beaches I recommend in Positano. The first is the main beach that you see in all the photos called Spiaggia Grande. It’s divided into two sections, the public beach and the private beach. Anyone can lay and swim on the public beach, but to stay on the private beach you need to buy a chair. When I went in mid April, a chair and umbrella cost me €12.50, but I’ve heard that in high season they can cost up to €20.

The other beach is called Fornillo Beach. It’s much smaller but a lot more local and less crowded, so you may want to go to this one instead. It’s around the cliff from the main beach, and you get there by walking down the stairs from Via Fornillo.

Keep in mind that both beaches are not sandy so much as rocky, especially when you get near the water, so wear appropriate shoes!

Image Source: @courtneygrow

Afternoon: Explore the Town

After you get hungry, eat at a restaurant by the beach! You can’t really go wrong, but restaurants that I’ve heard highly recommended are Chez Black and Da Ferdinando. Because the Amalfi Coast is right by the sea, Positano is known for amazing seafood, and you absolutely have to try some!

After lunch, explore the town! Start from the shops and streets near the beach. Then, move up. This will require some hiking, but don’t worry, even though it was a lot of climbing, it didn’t feel strenuous at all! Do some shopping, browse the stores, take a ton of photos. There’s no set path for this, but you should stroll along the main road.

While you’re here, be sure to check out some lemon products! The Amalfi Coast is known for its lemons, and a bunch of lemon candies would make for a fantastic souvenir! Their handmade sandals are also extremely well-made.

Evening: Dinner & Drinks

At this point, the sun is starting to get low in the sky, so it’s time for dinner! If there’s one thing you need to do, it’s eat dinner with a view. The view in Positano is the main attraction, so you can’t miss out on this! The best dinner spot is called La Sponda at Le Sirenuse hotel. It’s a Michelin-starred restaurant that serves delicious Mediterranean cuisine.

Other fantastic restaurants with incredible views include Ristorante Bruno, Ristorante Terazza Cele, Maestro at Villa Treville, Saracena d’Oro, and Il Tridente.

Image Source: @ananewyork

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious Italian food, it’s time for drinks! If there’s one bar you need to go to, it’s Franco’s Bar. Get all dressed up in your cocktail dress and espadrilles, because you will feel like a queen when you go here. The view here is simply unbeatable, and the cocktails are a really good value at the price.

If you’re not staying in Positano, at this point you probably need to head back to wherever you’re staying. If you are staying in Positano, you have to go to Music on the Rocks. It’s a nightclub inside a cave that you need to get to by walking along the beach. Apparently, the parties are wild and super fun, but sadly I didn’t get a chance to go.

Pictures from MusicOnTheRocks.com

Day 2: Ravello & Amalfi

Morning: Ravello

I didn’t manage to make it to Ravello during my time on the Amalfi Coast, and I’m recommending it here because I regret it so much! Ravello is a thousand feet up in the cliffs, so unlike the other towns, it’s not a beach destination. However, the height means that the views are simply unbeatable.

If there’s no beach then what do you do? Well, there are two villas that everyone goes to see. Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone. Depending on how early you want to start your day, you might have time to visit one or both. I recommend Villa Rufolo if you can only choose one.

Image Source: @nastasiaspassport

Villa Rufolo is a 13th century villa, built for the Rufolo family. Although the Moorish architecture is stunning, the main attraction is the gardens. They are absolutely beautiful.

Villa Cimbrone is an 11th century villa that is now a hotel, but the grounds are still open to the public! The infinity terrace is the main attraction here – peering out the edge of this terrace is a breathtaking experience. Many well known artists, writers, musicians and actors have come to Cimbrone for inspiration, and it’s easy to see why.

Image Source: @madeleineryanphoto

Then eat lunch at the Belmond Hotel Caruso. This hotel has the single most stunning infinity pool in the world, and yes that’s a strong statement but look at it! Can you really disagree? If you want a proper meal, eat at the Belvedere Restaurant. Otherwise, have a light lunch by the pool and soak in the view.

Afternoon: Amalfi

Now take the bus down to Amalfi. I feel like people don’t realize that not only is Amalfi a coast, it’s also a town! Amalfi is the main town on the Amalfi Coast, and is a lot larger than the other towns you’ve been to thus far. Just like most of the other towns, the town has wonderful seafood, a gorgeous beach, and tourists galore.

You have to start by visiting the iconic Amalfi Cathedral! The entry fee is only €3, and the interior is gorgeous! There’s a stunning courtyard in the middle of the cathedral, and amazing carvings throughout. Be aware that the dress code is conservative, so you should cover your shoulders inside.

After the cathedral, wander through the streets of Amalfi. It’s the biggest of the few towns in the Amalfi Coast, and the winding streets are super cute. If you’re hungry, grab a gelato! After all, you’re in Italy.

Make your way out of the town and onto the beach. There are also public and private beaches in Amalfi. However, I highly recommend Marina Grande Restaurant Beach Club and Silver Moon Beach Club.

Marina Grande is a Michelin-starred restaurant, but the chairs aren’t too expensive, and the cocktails that they serve are amazing! Try the Amalfi Sunset, it was absolutely amazing!

Silver Moon is a bit less expensive, and I just love their red chairs and umbrellas against the blue water. It’s a great beach club for photos!

Once the sun disappears behind the cliffside, it’s time to head to dinner. I highly recommend moving directly from your beach club to a restaurant by the seaside. Again, Iltari serves Michelin-starred food, so it’s totally worth a visit.

Watch the sunset from the pier, and then it’s time to head back for the day.

Day 3: Capri

Capri is a tiny island off the Amalfi Coast. As it used to be Emperor Augustus’ private resort, it’s a luxurious getaway and the summer favorite for VIPs and celebrities. To get here, you’ll have to take a ferry from the mainland.

Morning: Marina Grande & Capri Town

When you arrive, you’ll be at Marina Grande, the main port. Capri’s marina is a destination in itself, so I recommend walking around and exploring the area! To start off the day, I recommend taking a boat tour around the island, so you can see the entirety of it and to see the iconic Faraglioni Rocks. This is the best way to see the island for sure!

Also, be sure to find a boat tour that will take you to see the Blue Grotto. It’s a cave formation that is so low you have to lie flat in your boat to enter, but once inside the waters look as if they’re glowing blue, and the boat captains will serenade you. Unfortunately, since this attraction is so popular, there are often extensively long lines to get inside; some have waited over 2 hours, so be prepared to wait.

Once your boat tour is finished, head up to Capri Town. This is the main town within Capri and it’s absolutely stunning in the summer! Head to Via Camerelle if you like shopping for designer goods, or if you’re on a budget, head over to the Gardens of Augustus for the most spectacular view of the rugged cliffs of Capri and the open ocean. This is a good spot to eat lunch; if you truly want the best views, you have to dine at  Ristorante il Geranio overlooking the Faraglioni Rocks!

Afternoon: Anacapri

After lunch, head up to Anacapri. Ana means above, which perfectly describes the location of Anacapri above everything else. It’s technically a separate town from Capri, and it’s usually quieter due to its elevation. If you’re really looking for the best views, head to the piazza and take the Monte Solaro chairlift all the way up the mountain.

At this point the last ferries will probably be leaving the island, so head back down to the Marina and head back to the mainland!

Day 4: Free Day

This is your last day on the Amalfi Coast, so spend it how you feel fit! I find that everyone prefers different towns and activities, so for the last day, choose your own adventure!

Here are a few things you could do:

  • Revisit your favorite town
  • Explore one of the other towns I haven’t covered in this article. 
  • Go hiking! The Amalfi Coast is full of hiking trails.
  • Take a day trip to Pompeii
  • Go boating/kayaking
  • Take a day trip to Procida and Ischia

Snap a ton of photos, then try not to cry as you leave this gorgeous destination.

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